Method of sewing



(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1. A. MOREHOUSE.

METHOD 0F SEWING.

No. 356,415. Patented Jan. 18, 1887.

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A. IVIOREHOUSF.A

METHOD 0F SEWING..

No. 356,415. Patented Jan. 18, 1887.

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AARON MOREHOUSE, OF DANBURY, CONNWASSIGNOR TO THE HAT SWEAT MANUFACTURINGv COMPANY, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

METHOD OF sEwiNe.

SPECFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 356,415, dated January 18, 1887.

Application filed J une 23, 1886. Serial No. 205,979.

To @ZZ 10710771, t may concern,.-

Be it known that I, AARON MoRnHoUsE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Danbury, in the county of Fairfield and Slate of 5 Connecticut, have invented acertain new and Improved Method of Sewing, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part thereof.

My invention consistsin an improved method of sewing, in which the result aimed at is to produce a seam showing upon one side ofthe fabric or material as a row of loops in substantially the same line, but meeting a row of rr, other loops parallel to each other at an angle,

and upon the other side of the fabric or inaterial as two parallel rows of stitches closely drawn into the fabric, and in every way resembling two lines ofordinarysewing-machine 2o stitching.

I am aware that double seams showing upon oneside whip or diagonal stitches are old; butI have invented a new and improved method of producing such a seam, requiring the use of but two instead of three threads, and making a very elastic stitch. y

In order to form my stitchI preferably make use of a machine for which I have made application for Letters Patent of the United 3o States,the said application having been tiled on or about June 18, 1886, and serially numbered 205,538, in which I make use of two eyepointed needles of unequal length (and by unequal length I mean needles which descend to unequal distances below the cloth) vertically reciprocating in a plane cutting the line of feed at right angles, or nearly so, each provided with threads, as usual, and beneath the cloth-plate a vibratory looping-hook of pe- I do not give further details of the construction of the machine, for these are fully set forth in the said application above referred to, filed coincident herewith, and for the reason that this patent is for the method of sewing, and not for any special machinery whereby the threads may be concatenated.

The general nature of this improved method of sewing may be setforth as follows: Ihe two 5o needles descending penetrate the material which is to be sewed and form loops on their (No model.)

ascent upon the under side. These loops are caught by a vibratory looper and drawn out and held. On their next descent one ofthe needles penetrates both loops, which are drawn up against the under side ofthe fabric or material, forming a chain-stitch, having interlooped therewith a series of loops whose sides are closely drawn together, and which meet the said chain at an oblique angle.

Figure 1 of the drawings is a perspective sketch of the seam produced by this improved method supposed to be removed from the falgric or material upon which it is made. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the upper surface of a piece of material stitched in accordance with my improved method. Fig. 3 is a plan view of the under surface of the same seam, showing the peculiarities of the stitch. Figs. et to 12, inclusive, are diagrams representing the rela- 7O tive positions of the needles and the loopinghook, showing the different phases of the formation of the stitch. These diagrams will be explained severally in the description of the details of the method of sewing herein set forth. I

A is the thread which forms the ordinary chain-stitch. B is the thread which forms the diagonal stitch. The parts of the thread marked a and b are upon the upper side of the 8O fabric. The remaining parts of both threads are either upon the under side or within the substance of the fabric. H is the vibratory looping-hook; R, the material being sewed; f, the shorter needle; j", the longer one; hloop. 85 spreader, forming a part of the looping-hook H.

The ordinary arrows on the drawings indicate the direction of the motion of the needles and the looping-hook at different stages of the process. A double-headed arrow indicates a 9o period of rest.

To explain more in detail the formation of the stitch, I will describe the diagrams 4 to 12, inclusive. In Fig. 4 the needles are shown above the cloth-plate, ready to penetrate the 95 fabric for the first stitch. The hook is a't rest at its farthest backward point. In the position shown in Fig. 5 the needles have penetrated the fabric and descended to their lowest position and are rising to form loops, as IOO usual, which loops are being entered by the point of the looping-hook moving forward. In

Fig. 6 the needles, having reached their highest point, have commenced to descend, and are again ready to penetrate the fabric, the feed has carried the fabric forward the length '0f One stitch, and the hook, holding both loops,

is at its period of rest preparatory to its returnstroke. In Fig. 7 the needles are shown movingfarther downward, the shorter one just entering both the loops, held open for the passage of the needle by the loop opener or spreader 7e', and the hook has started on its backward trip. In Fig. 8 the short needle is shown completely through both loops, and the hook, retreating still farther, is about to leave both loops surroundingr the shorter needle, f. In Fig. 9 the needles are shown as having again reached theirlowest pointandjnst commencing to rise, with both loops slipped from the hook and drawn up around the short needle, and with the hook again on its forward stroke, new loops forming by the ascent of the needles and ready for the hook to enter them, as shown in the next figure. The loop on the shorter needle, f, is forming below and with its neel; inelosed in the two other loops, which are nearly drawn up around the said needle. In Fig. l0 the needles have ascended a little higher, having completed a second pair of loops (which the hook is about entering) in the same manner as that which is shown in Fig. 5. In Fig. ll the hook is still moving forward through the second set of loops, the needles are still rising, the shorter needlejust rising out of the first set of loops in the underside of the fabric, where they are held in place by the second loop from the shorter needle, f, which is drawn through both 0f them, and held on the hook, together with the second loop from the longer needle, f. In Fig. 12 the needles, after having risen to their highest poi-nt, are shown as having again deseended to their lowest point, having passed in their descent through both of the second set of loops and the hook is leaving them similar to Fig. 8, the fabric has in the meantime, under the iniiuence of the feed, moved forward the space necessary for another stitch.

The operation continues, as above described, c ompleting the seam.

The advantages of this method of sewing M are that but two threads are used, which are both needle-threads, and the resulting seam is very elastic, which is a valuable feature in the manufacture of hat-sweats, and for many other purposes.

Having now fully described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

The herein-described method of forming a seam or eoneatenating two threads in connection with cloth, leather, Ste., which consists, essentially, first, in passing two loops of thread from the upper tothe under side ofthe cloth, the line passing through said loops being at right angles to the completed seaming; second, in seizing and holding said loops beneath the cloth in such position that when a second set of loops is passed down through the cloth one of said second set of loops shall pass through both of the rst set of loops which are held below the cloth; third, in passing a seccond set of loops th rough the cloth, one of said second set being madeto pass through both of the first set ot' loops, and, fourth, in seizing and holding said second set of loops below the cloth in such position that one of a third set of loops shall pass through both loops of the second set, and so on in succession, to form a seam of any desired length, substantially as described.

In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand.

AARON MOREHOUSE.

\Vitnesses:

DAVID B. Boorn, C. A. CRAWFORD. 

